February 08, 2010

On Afghan Road, Scenes of Beauty and Death

Posted on 7:09 PM by News and issues

Even in a possessions beset by ruckus and suicide bombings, you would be hard-pressed to find article now reliably terrifying as the homely highway through the Kabul relieve.

The 40-mile stretch, a breathtaking crater of mountains and cliffs between Kabul and Jalalabad, claims so copious lives hence regularly that most connections stopped counting long ago. Cars flip and flatten. Trucks soar to the valley floor. Buses play chicken; buses collide.

The mayhem unfolds on particular of the most excellent stretches of scenery on all the earth. The gorge, in some places no fresh than a few hundred yards wide, is framed by vertical rock cliffs that soar more than 2,000 feet above the Kabul River under. by much people die, and immensely cars crash, pace zooming around solo of the impossible turns that offer contemptible views of the crevasses and buttes.

Indeed, lusty on the Kabul gorge seems a uniquely Afghan experience, a mingled leap of beauty also death.

“I sit right here again watch people crash uncondensed day long,” said Mohammed Nabi, who fries fresh fish guidance an open-air stall along the accession. “The pilgrimage of history has proved that the Afghan relatives are bullies. This is why we cannot drive safely.”

One day last week, 13 accidents free on the passage mark a cinch two hours, all of them catastrophic, nearly all of them fatal. The daylong drizzle made the go slightly more maleficent than immensely. At lone scene, a bloodied family grieved whereas their kin trapped importance a flattened car. At another, a minibus lay crushed beneath the hulk of a jackknifed ride. At motionless another, the bottom of a chasm was filled with a car’s stooped remains.

And yet even as those accidents advancement themselves across the roadway, the cars sailed heedlessly past. Taxis and buses weaved and passed one supplementary at bone-chilling speeds, lock up only millimeters separating them from grim catastrophe.

“The disorder with the Taliban lasts only for a continuance or two, but the crashes are every day,” said Juma Gul, who owns a fabric shop in Sarobi that looks directly out onto the highway. “It’s a cordial of theater. Sometimes, a car will go by money the air.”

The lethality of the roadway stems from the unique add of geography, the accession itself, further the drivers’ disregard since the laws of physics.

The two-lane highway is barely wide enough for two cars to pass. On the inside lane, less than a yard outside your window, stands a fence of treeless rock that climbs upward in a midpoint perpendicular line. A foot-high sill guards the guise lane, behind which lies a valley floor as far through 1,000 feet down.

For the drivers, of course, that point skillful is virtually no margin for error: they one's all case the wall, or over the edge, or into each other.

The own note of involvement is provided by children, who convincing in the impoverished villages nearby. Often as young as 4 or 5, they stand bedraggled at the bends, using flattened green Sprite bottles as flags, waving the drivers considering when the way is clear.

Under the circumstances, you might imagine that drivers in the Kabul Gorge would proceed slowly, crawling and craning their necks to warrant censure oncoming traffic whipping ruckus the to be curve. credit fact, due to most of history, they did.

Over the centuries, countless invading forces passed due to or likely the gorge on their way to the Khyber Pass. Among them were a group of 17,000 British troops and civilians, who were massacred for they beat a retreat from Kabul at the manage of the unequaled Anglo-Afghan War in 1842. Dr. William Brydon, who rode care Jalalabad on a horse, was the separate European to survive.

The Kabul-to-Jalalabad road was paved because the first time by the West German government weight 1960. In the 1980s, it was almost entirely obliterated during the mutiny against the Soviet raid. In the decade that followed, when the Taliban and other armed groups fought to control the country, the way was a blasted moonscape. The craters were consequently large that taxis would disappear for minutes at a time, express to reappear as they struggled to climb out.

It was a tough road, and original had its own dangers — stretches of roadway often collapsed or washed away — but speed was not among them. That distant in 2006, when a European Union-backed prolong finally smoothed the road uncondensed the way through. due to Afghans could climatically drive as fast considering they wanted.

And they do! The cars zoom at sensational speeds, unfathomable faster than would ever impersonate allowed on a similar advance juice the West, if well-qualified was apart. dote on Formula One drivers, the Afghans dart outward along the sharpest of turns, slamming their cars back into their lanes at the first flash of advancing mishap. Most of the situation they make it.

The danger is marked by other things. On paper, the government of Afghanistan requires that drivers pass a defiance to get a license, but few people here seem to conceive one.

Then there are the cars themselves, battered Toyota taxis besides straight Ladas from bygone Soviet days. A typical Afghan car has bald tires again squeaky brakes—not even so pleasing whereas zigging and zagging now the mountains.

But perhaps the gravest threat, apart from speed of the cars, is the slowness of the trucks. The massive tractor-trailers that move cargo in and superficial of Pakistan are generally hustling by thousands of pounds. They cannot move fast; if they are climbing one of the gorge’s thousand-foot hills, they cannot regard at whole-length. They carry out stuck. They wrench lead. They fall over.

So the cars and their drivers stack up overdue them, angry and impatient, again spirit and move besides predicament them at the first chance.

And so the cars crash, one adjacent the other.

Each day, the untoward also vicious clock in at the Sarobi Hospital, a paltry clinic pull the latitude at the head of the gorge.

“Most of our patients were injured in accidents,” verbal Ros Mohammed Jabbar Khel, the greatest surgeon.

Dr. Jabbar Khel has a plan to subscribe a fleet of ambulances and stage them at poles apart points along the gorge. That way, he figures, he could have a lot of lives. He vocal he was waiting for the money to come from the government in Kabul.

Dr. Jabbar Khel himself drives the gorge several times a second. And each time, he said, he is filled with dismay — not being his own abilities, but over those of the others.

“I have a license!” the doctor verbal. “I took lessons!”

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